I went to the Bahamas three times the year before the pandemic, which forced me into a 10-month break from island life. As the quarantine and social distancing measures wore on, I missed Eleuthera more each day. With over 100 miles and 150 beaches to explore, “fear of missing out” became less of a “fear” and more of a reality.
With the pandemic finally fading away, I refuse to take an island hiatus that long ever again. In fact, I’ve already been back three times — most recently in July 2022!
If you’re desperate for an island vacation, unfamiliar with Eleuthera and wondering why I’m so obsessed with the island, this “Beginner’s Guide to Eleuthera” is for you. Now, let me douse your mind in pure Bahamian sunshine and prepare you for the adventure of a lifetime!
Traveling to Eleuthera: Airlines and Routes
One of the questions I’m asked most frequently is “how to get to Eleuthera.” In my Harbour Island guide, I explain how to travel to ELH, which is the airport in North Eleuthera. It’s one of three airports on Eleuthera and the easiest to fly into. Here are the standard airlines that will take you to ELH:
- American Airlines – Connection in Miami or Fort Lauderdale
(My recommendation would be to avoid Charlotte unless it’s your neighborhood airport. Customs there can create brutal lines on the way back home.)
- Delta Airlines – Connection in Atlanta
- Silver Airways – Connection in Fort Lauderdale or Nassau
- Bahamas Air – Connection in Nassau
- Pineapple Air – Connection in Nassau
You can also take Silver Airways, Pineapple Air and Bahamas Air to GHB from Nassau. GHB is the airport near Governor’s Harbour, which is more convenient if you intend to stay in Governor’s Harbour or south Eleuthera. Plus, they have an air-conditioned waiting room and bar for departing guests.
Finally, there is the southernmost airport in Rock Sound (RSD). Like GHB, it’s easiest to get to by connecting in Nassau first, then taking Bahamas Air or Pineapple Air across.
Vacation In Eleuthera Bahamas
Pro Tip: In my experience, as someone who lives in the U.S., the cheapest way to fly to Eleuthera is by flying to Fort Lauderdale and taking Silver Airways across to ELH. However, it’s not always the most headache-free. Silver is known for delays and canceling flights that aren’t full. However, they’ve always gotten me there, so I can’t complain too much.
Getting Around Eleuthera: Rent an SUV
Eleuthera is over 100 miles long, so you’ll need a capable SUV! There are several rental companies on the island, but I usually rent from a kind woman named Sue Knowles. If you would like her email address, please email me (travelwithlace at gmail) or reach out to me on Instagram.
Car rentals are typically between $80-120 per day plus delivery, depending on where they need to drop the car off for you. Rentals are not cheap, but they are absolutely essential!
What to Do in Eleuthera, The Bahamas
Eleuthera has its own phrase — “Eleuthera, it’s not for everyone.” It’s hilarious to me because I completely understand why that’s the phrase, but I also think anyone who dislikes Eleuthera is crazy. On some level, I think people who dislike Eleuthera actually dislike having to acknowledge that the place they’re vacationing in is made up of real people with real hardships. This ain’t Disneyland, folks, and it’s certainly not a commercialized destination — it’s a remote island in the Bahamas. If you prefer the latest modern amenities, busy restaurants, luxury shopping malls and vehicles without mechanical issues, I recommend looking into Paradise Island over in Nassau.
150 Untouched Beaches in Eleuthera, The Bahamas
Eleuthera is known for its many “elusive” beaches, including world-famous Lighthouse Beach, Twin Coves Beach, Double Bay Beach, French Leave Beach and so many others. This variety is one of the many reasons I love Eleuthera — I know that as long as I live, I’ll never see every inch of the island.
There are many beaches listed on TripAdvisor, but I highly recommend buying The Beach Book: Eleuthera (which goes out of print often, so prices range between $49 and $130) and The Elusive Beaches of Eleuthera book. Ordinarily, I’m not a huge travel guide fan, but these books are worth it because they list so many beaches and explain how to find them.
A couple of things to be aware of with these books: First, the photographs don’t do the island any justice! Second, the reference points in The Elusive Beaches of Eleuthera book are a bit dated. For instance, it uses “The Duck Inn” as a reference point, but it no longer exists. You can, however, ask a local where the Duck Inn was and you’ll likely get a reference point
If you can’t get your hands on the books, you can also look for a detailed map of the island. You can check Amazon or Norma’s Gift Shop in Governor’s Harbour for a map.
Pro Tip: If you use the Google Maps app, you can download the local map to your phone to ensure you’re able to use the app without cellular data. The maps do expire every few days, so be sure to download your map when you arrive (versus days in advance).
Many of the beaches, including Lighthouse Point and Twin Coves Beach require some “offroading” to find. Be sure you rent an SUV! (Don’t worry about 4×4. Word has it even the vehicles labeled “4X4” aren’t because the 4X4 systems are too difficult to maintain on the island.)
If you’re going to Lighthouse Beach, be prepared for a 2-mile hike down a pristine beach. Dinsey has improved the road, but you can no longer drive all the way to the point. Instead, you have to park your car and walk to the point. As of now (July 2022) I’ve been told that no cruise port construction has actually taken place. This means you can still soak up the raw beauty of the point and grab those jaw-dropping drone shots!
Be sure to take LOTS of water, snacks, or a full-blown picnic. Oh, and some toilet paper might be nice, just in case.
Pro Tip: If your cellular provider doesn’t have great international plans, the best thing you can do to make navigating the island easy is to rent a WiFi hotspot from MyIslandWifi.com. They’re not cheap, and they have limited quantities, but having unlimited internet access while you’re in the backwoods of the island trying to find some unmarked beach is extremely reassuring.
Fishing & Boat Tours in Eleuthera
When I go visit the swimming pigs or reef fishing in the Eleuthera area, I always go with Spanish Wells Fishing. To go out with SWF and Captain Ryan, you need to drive up to the Jean’s Bay Ferry Dock, which faces Spanish Wells from North Eleuthera. Ryan will pick you up in a boat there for a day full of sea creatures, sand bars, and/or fishing. All of his trips are fully customizable, so you can do and see whatever you want!
If you’re not interested in driving up to North Eleuthera, you can also look for tour guides that operate out of Governor’s Harbour or South Eleuthera, though they are harder to find. Visit TripAdvisor for more information on tours and fishing options around Eleuthera or look through my top choices.
My Top Tour Guide Recommendations in Eleuthera
- Spanish Wells Fishing – Boat Tours, Fishing, Diving, Snorkeling
- Spanish Wells (North Eleuthera)
- My personal go-to tour guide in North Eleuthera!
- Mus Be Dreamin’ Charters – Boat Tours, Fishing, Diving, Snorkeling
- Spanish Wells (North Eleuthera)
- Fishbone Tours – Boat Tours, Fishing, Snorkeling
- Savannah Sound (Central Eleuthera)
- I’ve heard rave reviews about this tour guide! A solid option for guests staying in mid-to-south Eleuthera.
- Eleuthera Adventure Tours – Canoeing, Kayaking, Tours, etc.
- Rock Sound, Eleuthera (South Eleuthera)
- Float Your Boat Bahamas – Tours, Fishing, Snorkeling, Concierge Services
- Nassau, Eleuthera, and the rest of the Bahamas
Glass Window Bridge
The Glass Window Bridge, also known as the narrowest point on earth, connects North Eleuthera to the rest of the island. It sits high above the ocean, with the Caribbean Sea (Exuma Sound) on one side and the deep blue Atlantic on the other. The contrasting water is incredible to see and even more staggering from the air. Don’t forget to bring your drone for photos like these!
(P.S. This place is extremely dangerous when the water is rough! People have literally been washed over the edge trying to get a glimpse at the two sides. Please avoid climbing on the rocks and DO NOT drive across when the water is high/rough. Love, Your Mom.)
The Queen’s Bath is just beyond the Glass Window Bridge (if you’re headed south from ELH).
These natural “baths” are created when the ocean is at low tide, making it the perfect spot for a sunny dip away from the waves. However, this spot — much like Glass Window Bridge — can be quite dangerous if you visit when the tide is higher, or the water is rough. Please remember that when you’re in Eleuthera, you’re an airlift away from a major hospital!
As cheesy as it sounds, I implore you to actively stargaze while you are visiting Eleuthera. There’s virtually no light pollution in the out islands, so you can see EVERYTHING — the milky way, shooting stars and satellites are all yours to enjoy. Nothing will make you feel smaller!
Shopping in Eleuthera
Norma’s Gift Shop
Norma’s is THE gift shop in Eleuthera. If you want Eleuthera t-shirts and souvenirs, or find yourself needing new sandals or swimwear on your trip, this is the place to go! They have a large selection of items, and the store is very centrally located. You can find Norma’s in Governor’s Harbour, right across the street from the convenience store and Da Perk coffee shop, next to the police station.
(My mom thinks the police station is hilarious because it has a wooden sign and a police mini-bike parked out front. She couldn’t get enough of it.)
Bahama Hand Prints
Bahama Hand Prints, which is quickly becoming an iconic brand in the Bahamas, has three locations. Luckily for you, one of them is in Governor’s Harbour, just across from Norma’s Gift Shop. When you’re driving into town from the North, you can’t miss seeing their whimsical sign.
They stock a range of high-end men’s and womenswear, including button-down shirts, sundresses and swim shorts, as well as home decor and hand-designed fabrics. They also have adorable beach bags and pouches to help you keep your vacation items organized and stylish.
I highly recommend popping into Bahama Hand Prints to pick up some fashionable items you’ll be eager to show off when you head back home!
Groceries and Dining in Eleuthera, The Bahamas
The Eleuthera Island Farm is a family-owned farm and farmer’s market located 5-10 minutes south of Governor’s Harbour on the right-hand side. The small, open-air market has a selection of fresh-picked veggies and fruit — many of which you may not know about! You can find Bahamian red and green mangoes, passion fruit, quinep, soursop and more. It’s a great place to pick up fresh ingredients, homemade seasoning blends, jams, beer, wine and liquor to take back to your rental house.
Tippy’s is the coolest beach bar in all of Eleuthera! Located up-the-hill and around-the-corner from Governor’s Harbour, Tippy’s is a beach-front paradise for an afternoon of cold Kaliks and pina coladas. The last time we visited, we played cards on the deck for hours, went back to the house, and came back for dinner! Their lobster is the best I’ve had in all of the Bahamas (and I’ve had my fair share of spiny lobsters).
I’m not sure how we missed the Buccaneer Club on our first two trips. It’s located on the hill in Governor’s Harbour (on the way to French Leave Beach). It’s a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We were pleasantly surprised by their delicious, authentically Bahamian food and reasonable prices. If you want peas and rice, coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, and fried goodness, this is the place!
Be sure to stop into their gift shop for an “It’s Better in The Bahamas” t-shirt and a scoop of fresh coconut ice cream, too. I had to swing by for another scoop just before we left the island. It’s that good!
La Bougainvillea far exceeded my expectations. We ate here twice on a recent trip and absolutely loved it! The food was fresh and delicious and they have a solid wine selection. My husband even said they had the best conch fritters of any place we visited. (He’s a bit of a fritter connoisseur.) Plus, you absolutely cannot beat the beach-front views their restaurant offers. Next time, we may even consider staying in their gorgeous hotel.
If you drive out to Pineapple Fields Resort, Tippy’s or La Bougainvillea, you’ll pass Bacchus Fine Foods on the righthand side of the road. It’s very close to Governor’s Harbour and certainly worth a visit – especially if you’re gluten-free! They have an excellent selection of wine, cheeses, meats, crackers, and gluten-free baking ingredients and snacks. Eleuthera (and the entire Bahamas) can be tough for gluten-free eaters like myself, but Bacchus Fine Foods makes it easier! In addition to grocery items, Bacchus also offers dine-in and take-away items like charcuterie boards, omelets and lattes.
Burrow’s is just past the police station in Governor’s Harbour – on the right-hand side if you’re heading South East. It’s the most reasonably-priced and complete grocery store in town. You can find a limited selection of most items, including sunscreen, cereals, bread, frozen pizzas, meat and produce. The freezers in the back are labeled to let you know what’s inside. I highly recommend shopping at Burrow’s versus the Shell station convenience store across from Norma’s gift shop.
The Fish Fry
On Friday nights, locals and tourists gather in Governor’s Harbour to enjoy loud music, cold Kalik, and an array of Bahamian fare as the sun sets on Cupid’s Cay. You’ll find freshly-caught fried fish, barbecued chicken, peas and rice, Bahamian mac and cheese (seriously, the best thing on earth), coleslaw and more. You can even find homemade cakes and pies sold by street vendors near the “dance floor” — which is really just the street in front of the food stand. If you’re ready to absorb all that Bahamian culture has to offer, this event is absolutely worth planning your trip around!
Da Perk Coffee Shop
Picking up coffee from a proper coffee shop is something I love to do at home. Getting to visit a coffee shop steps from the water in Governor’s Harbour is even better! Da Perk (best name ever, right?) is right across the street from Norma’s Gift Shop. They have a full range of coffee beverages – hot and cold – as well as a small selection of pastries to help you get the day started. Definitely worth a visit when you’re in town and eager for a caffeine boost!
We didn’t have a chance to stop at The Cove Resort, but I always drool when I see photos! The Cove is located in North Eleuthera near Gregory Town. It’s not far from the North Eleuthera Airport and would be a great place to stay for people interested in being near Harbour Island and Spanish Wells for day trips.
They have the Freedom restaurant and sushi bar and the Point Bar, which is known for sunset cocktails. The Cove also offers private dining options for resort guests.
The French Leave Resort is located in central Eleuthera, just outside of Governor’s Harbour. The property is gorgeous and provides guests with access to the beautiful French Leave Beach (which you can also visit on your own). The French Leave’s restaurant, which is perfectly located on the water’s edge overlooking Cupid’s Cay, is called 1648. The restaurant offers thoughtful (and somewhat expensive) menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s the ideal spot to catch one of those iconic Governor’s Harbour sunsets!
Eating Gluten-Free in Eleuthera: A Personal Note
Due to health reasons, I now have to eat gluten and dairy-free, so I wanted to make a note for others in the same boat. The Bahamas can be tough for safe gluten-free dining for celiac travelers. However, I’m happy to report that our most recent trip was the easiest one yet. I was able to eat at La Bougainvillea, Buccaneer Club, and even the Fish Fry without feeling ill. Fortunately, Bahamian staples like curried grouper, peas and rice, and cole slaw are naturally gluten and dairy free. Most of the servers I spoke to understood what I needed and helped make sure I could find something safe (though cross-contamination is always a risk). I also love how easy it is to find a nice AirBNB with a kitchen in Eleuthera. Between bringing my own staples (tortillas, pasta, etc.), shopping at Bacchus Fine Foods and The Island Farm, and chatting with restaurant staff, I never go hungry in Eleuthera.
A common question: Is Eleuthera safe?
There’s an Eleuthera group on Facebook and one of the first questions newcomers ask is whether or not Eleuthera is safe. One of my favorite answers I’ve seen is “Eleuthera is safer than wherever you’re coming from.” And, it’s true! I live in a middle-class neighborhood in Dallas, and I feel safer in Eleuthera.
While there is some crime in Eleuthera, it’s 99% petty theft. As with most places, it’s important to keep your doors and windows locked at night and avoid leaving valuables unattended. (e.g., don’t get careless and leave your beach bag yards from wherever you’re swimming.)
Pro Tip: Leave your rental car unlocked! The company you rent your car from will tell you the same thing. If you lock your car, you may have your window smashed because thieves will assume you’re hiding something valuable.
Things to Pack for Your Trip to Eleuthera
Eleuthera is full of amazing wildlife… and some annoying creatures too! To make preparing for your trip a little easier, I compiled an Amazon shopping list of items you’ll probably need. It includes island-specific insect repellents, water shoes, packing essentials, the specific drone I use for travel, and a few other things.
Visiting Eleuthera in 2022?
If you’re planning to go to Eleuthera in 2022, please know that the restrictions for tourists entering the Bahamas are ever-changing. For updated entry requirements and the health visa application visit travel.gov.bs. Check these requirements frequently ahead of your trip — definitely within 7 days!
I will continue updating this guide on a regular basis (especially after trips). If you need any further information, don’t hesitate to reach out to me on Instagram (@travelwithlace). I’m always happy to answer questions about travel to and within the Bahamas.
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LACEY IS AN AVID TRAVELER, GRAPHIC DESIGN, MARKETER, PHOTOGRAPHER, FOODIE AND BEACH CONNOISSEUR. SHE LIVES IN THE GREAT STATE OF TEXAS WITH HER HUSBAND, ALEX, AND THEIR BIG, GOOFY GOLDEN RETRIEVER, HENRY.
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